To give you an idea of this sewing project, I wanted to entitle this article: Why not to sew white trousers.
As I could never find nicely fitting white trousers I decided to sew a pair… mmm, easier said than done. Not only I had to deal with pattern adaptations I had never done before, I also had to deal with the transparency problem of white fabric. Adding a lightweight cotton underlining rather easily solved the latter problem. Indeed, I just cut the same pattern pieces in the underlining fabric and the outside fabric and basted them together by hand (making this step quite cumbersome). Next, I sewed them together using a zig-zag stitch, allowing to finish the edges before assembling the trousers. The outside fabric is a lovely heavy weight viscose cupro from Tissus Bennytex used previously for the Jackie top.
The fitting issue was more complex and I discovered that it is quite difficult to make trousers that ally comfort and aesthetics. I used the Aime comme Manège pattern as starting point, which is a high waisted short I had already sewn before. Although I really like the short’s fit, I find them a bit uncomfortable sitting down, so I tried to fix this issue. I also elongated the legs using another pattern as guideline (“pantalon Fusain” from Blousette Rose). Not being an experienced sewer I found it difficult to decide on the required adjustments. I probably made more muslins than needed, from which I’ll save you the details. It was particularly difficult to make adjustments that didn’t contradict other adjustments. For instance, for the sitting problem it is advised to lengthen the whole crotch but then I had excess fabric in the front, which required shortening the crotch in the front. Anyway, far from being professional, I’ll just give you a list of the sites I found useful for trouser fitting:
- Colette blog: Schematic overview of all trousers fitting problems and their solutions
- Cation Designs: I stumbled on this blog while searching for trousers sewing issues and I found her explanations very good! They even included some modifications I had never seen before (e.g. the diagonal dart). I really recommend taking a look at her various articles regarding pants fitting.
- Closet Case Patterns: Clear images of the most common trouser fitting issues and how to resolve them.
- Artesane: Very clear website (if you understand French) with images of the most common crotch issues and how to resolve them
I can say that this whole sewing journey made me quite obsessed, checking out other people’s trousers, which is pretty weird if it’s not for pattern modification reasons. Thank god for the eternal sunshine here so that I could wear my sunglasses to prevent uncomfortable glances 🙂