I know there are far more important issues to contemplate, but here I am thinking about things like: should I start buying anti-wrinkle cream, what happened to Hugh Grant and should I start wearing real trousers? Even though I’m the typical jeans-shirt person, I have always found smart trousers very beautiful. However, I never seem to find a pair that suits me. Now that I started sewing I decided to try and make trousers that I like and fit me (which is the most difficult part…).
My first attempt at trousers was an adaption of the Aime comme Manège shorts without any particular features: no pockets, no button- or zip-fly and no real waistband. I do like them but let’s face it; real trousers are prettier when they have all these nice details. Though, not wanting to tackle all these rather complicated sewing affairs at once I decided to made transitional trousers before attacking smart trousers. I used the Fusain pattern from Blousette Rose. It’s a PDF pattern that involves pasting a lot of pages together but it’s worth it, they have a nice fit. The pattern and instructions are in French but she proposes other nice patterns in English. Seam allowances are not included and, I don’t know why, I was not in the mood for adding them myself. Instead I took two sizes bigger as indicated by the size chart, which corresponds more or less to 1 cm seam allowance, and it worked out well for the size! I do have to say that my version of these trousers facilitates a lot of fitting issues. Indeed, instead of the button-fly I added an elastic waistband .
To this end, I removed the button fly part from the front pattern pieces and I didn’t sew the folds. For the back pattern pieces I kept a 1 cm fold each. This made the trousers just wide enough to pass them over my hips. For the waistband I have cut a rectangle with a width of 20 cm and a length corresponding to the trousers’ waistline (+1 cm seam allowance at each side).
After sewing this rectangle closed, I added bias binding to the side of the waistband that will be visible at the inside of the trousers. I sewed the waistband on the trousers right sides together. I folded the waistband to the interior and sewed them on, leaving a gap to pass the elastic. Then I sewed a line 5 cm above the waistline. This gives the effect I looked for, like the trousers are tightened together with a belt.
The fabric is the same dark green one that I used for my autumnal jacket. Unfortunately I have washed this jacket on 40°C and it has shrunk… Luckily it is still wearable and at least I can say that it’s very likely a wool blend. So let’s cross the fingers I don’t make the same washing mistake with these trousers!
For sure next time I will make proper smart trousers, with the button-fly and waistband included, but I do like this pair. They are so comfortable, like sweat pants in disguise!
Pattern: Pantalon Fusain from Blousette Rose in size 1 (I cut the pattern on size 3, which more or less corresponds to a size 1 as seam allowances are not included)
Modifications: I supressed the button-fly and folds from the front pattern pieces. I made 1 cm folds on the back pattern pieces, and replaced the waistband with an elastic one (I used and elastic with a width of 4 cm).
Fabric: The same dark green fabric from a flea market that I used for the Cardigan Bergen.